BEWÄHRT UND GETESTET

Getting your gravel bike set up properly makes the difference between a comfortable ride and three hours of fighting your position. Setup isn't complicated, but small adjustments matter more on mixed terrain than they do on smooth tarmac. Here's what you need to know.

A bike fit is the standard in feeling comfortable on the bike. We have a partnership with the bike fitters, so check out the details here for more information.

Start With Saddle Height Saddle height affects everything else. Get this right first, then adjust from there.

A quick way to find your starting height is to sit on the bike with your heel on the pedal at the bottom of the stroke. Your leg should be straight but not locked. When you clip in and pedal normally, you'll have a slight bend at the knee.

Gravel specific tip: Some riders drop their saddle 5-10mm lower than their road bike position for better stability on rough terrain. Try your road height first, then adjust if needed.

Handlebar Height and Reach Gravel riding needs a more upright position than road racing, but not as upright as mountain biking.

How to adjust: Most gravel bikes use spacers under the stem. Move spacers above the stem to lower the bars, or below the stem to raise them. You can also flip the stem or change to a different angle.

Starting point: Bars roughly level with your saddle, or slightly below. This gives a comfortable position without too much weight on your hands.


Handlebar Width What works: Most gravel riders suit 42-46cm bars, measured centre to centre at the hoods. Go wider if you're riding technical terrain or have broad shoulders. Go narrower for speed and comfort on smoother routes. Warning signs: Shoulder or neck pain often indicates bars that are too wide. Feeling cramped or unstable suggests they're too narrow.


Brake Lever Position Brake levers should sit where you can reach them comfortably from the hoods without stretching.

How to set them: Levers should angle slightly downward, roughly in line with your forearms when you're on the hoods. You should be able to pull them with two fingers without moving your hand position.

Quick check: If you're constantly adjusting your hand position to brake, your levers need moving.

Tyre Pressure This is a topic of it’s own for gravel cyclists. For detailed pressure recommendations based on rider weight, conditions, and surface type, read our full guide: Tyre Choice and Pressures for UK Gravel

Pedals and Cleats Cleat position affects comfort and power transfer. Small adjustments make a big difference over long rides. Position cleats so the ball of your foot sits over the pedal axle. Start with cleats centred laterally, then adjust if you feel knee strain.

SPD vs road cleats: Many gravel riders prefer mountain bike style SPD pedals for easier walking and better mud clearance.

Final Checks Once you've made adjustments, ride a familiar loop and pay attention to how the bike feels. Setup is personal. What works for someone else might not work for you.

Warning signs:

• Numb hands: bars too low or too much weight forward
• Lower back pain: saddle too high or bars too low
• Knee pain: saddle height or fore-aft position needs adjusting
• Neck pain: bars too low or too wide

Make one change at a time and give it at least two rides before adjusting again. Small changes add up.

Get It Right A properly set up gravel bike feels like an extension of your body. You're not fighting the position or thinking about discomfort. You're just riding. That's when gravel gets good.

If you're struggling with setup, book a bike fit with us Here. We will get you fitted and dialled in properly.

Getting your gravel bike set up properly makes the difference between a comfortable ride and three hours of fighting your position. Setup isn't complicated, but small adjustments matter more on mixed terrain than they do on smooth tarmac. Here's what you need to know.

A bike fit is the standard in feeling comfortable on the bike. We have a partnership with the bike fitters, so check out the details here for more information.

Start With Saddle Height Saddle height affects everything else. Get this right first, then adjust from there.

A quick way to find your starting height is to sit on the bike with your heel on the pedal at the bottom of the stroke. Your leg should be straight but not locked. When you clip in and pedal normally, you'll have a slight bend at the knee.

Gravel specific tip: Some riders drop their saddle 5-10mm lower than their road bike position for better stability on rough terrain. Try your road height first, then adjust if needed.

Handlebar Height and Reach Gravel riding needs a more upright position than road racing, but not as upright as mountain biking.

How to adjust: Most gravel bikes use spacers under the stem. Move spacers above the stem to lower the bars, or below the stem to raise them. You can also flip the stem or change to a different angle.

Starting point: Bars roughly level with your saddle, or slightly below. This gives a comfortable position without too much weight on your hands.


Handlebar Width What works: Most gravel riders suit 42-46cm bars, measured centre to centre at the hoods. Go wider if you're riding technical terrain or have broad shoulders. Go narrower for speed and comfort on smoother routes. Warning signs: Shoulder or neck pain often indicates bars that are too wide. Feeling cramped or unstable suggests they're too narrow.


Brake Lever Position Brake levers should sit where you can reach them comfortably from the hoods without stretching.

How to set them: Levers should angle slightly downward, roughly in line with your forearms when you're on the hoods. You should be able to pull them with two fingers without moving your hand position.

Quick check: If you're constantly adjusting your hand position to brake, your levers need moving.

Tyre Pressure This is a topic of it’s own for gravel cyclists. For detailed pressure recommendations based on rider weight, conditions, and surface type, read our full guide: Tyre Choice and Pressures for UK Gravel

Pedals and Cleats Cleat position affects comfort and power transfer. Small adjustments make a big difference over long rides. Position cleats so the ball of your foot sits over the pedal axle. Start with cleats centred laterally, then adjust if you feel knee strain.

SPD vs road cleats: Many gravel riders prefer mountain bike style SPD pedals for easier walking and better mud clearance.

Final Checks Once you've made adjustments, ride a familiar loop and pay attention to how the bike feels. Setup is personal. What works for someone else might not work for you.

Warning signs:

• Numb hands: bars too low or too much weight forward
• Lower back pain: saddle too high or bars too low
• Knee pain: saddle height or fore-aft position needs adjusting
• Neck pain: bars too low or too wide

Make one change at a time and give it at least two rides before adjusting again. Small changes add up.

Get It Right A properly set up gravel bike feels like an extension of your body. You're not fighting the position or thinking about discomfort. You're just riding. That's when gravel gets good.

If you're struggling with setup, book a bike fit with us Here. We will get you fitted and dialled in properly.

The right setup only works when you start with the right bike. Our ULTRA-GRIT and ALLGRIT ranges are designed with the geometry, clearances, and versatility that make proper gravel setup easier from the start. With well designed endurance geometry, clearance for up to 50mm tyres, and full customisation options to fit your body before it even arrives, you're starting from the right place. Check out the range below.